Kraft’s Non-Cheese Non-Problem
In writing about food, one is really writing about life. And, that’s why I love writers such as M.F.K. Fisher, Calvin Trillin, A.J. Liebling, Ruth Riechl…and Kate at the Accidental Hedonist who recently did an excellent analysis of Kraft’s marketing problem. 
I confess. I like the non-cheese stuff in the green can. I was in college before I knew parmesan cheese came any other way (and I fondly remember Mom’s Chef Boy-A-Dee meatballs.)
But, this is just so wrong. Kraft is at it again, pitching their mass-produced product in a “new! convenient, improved” form. Which, of course, isn’t inherently a bad thing to do - businesses are supposed to make money, after all. The problem is that - well - there isn’t a problem. The people who really want freshly grated cheese aren’t going to buy this. They want - ahem, sniff! - real cheese.
Bottom Line: Kraft is pitching a “solution” their target market doesn’t want. And, in fact, many of the targets, such as Kate, downright hate both Kraft and Grate-It-Fresh. I don’t even want to think how much money Kraft poured into the “R&D” for this way over-packaged, under-desired product. Ouch.
“But wait!” you say, “What about the people who care more about convenience than taste?” Well, they’ll just grab a bag. Who has time to grate?
Me? I’ll keep buying the green can stuff as well as grating my own using real cheese and a cheap old hand grater.
(If you don’t already read the Accidental Hedonist, it really should be added to your list of favs. Check it out!)
(And, yes, I know that Kraft sells “real” cheese - but then both Mickey D’s and 21 sell “real” hamburgers.)
Happy Wednesday!
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September 27th, 2006 at 6:20 am
(Here from BlogHer, BTW!) I’d like to disagree … I think Kate is NOT Kraft’s target even if some staffie’s lame approach resulted in her malignment of all-thing-Kraft. Kraft sells Parmesan because people buy it, because for lots of the country, Parmesan comes in green cans not pricey chunks. And Kraft cares about them and NOT ONE WHIT about the others … no matter what they write.
September 27th, 2006 at 12:39 pm
Thanks for dropping by, Alanna.
Your comment and those over at Blogher illustrate why it is so difficult to be a marketer. I love the green can AND I like to grate my own. So, am I or am I not a target? Then, to take it down another level - I grate my own, but I don’t always buy the “pricey” stuff - but it’s still better than that in the can. BUT, I wouldn’t buy the new Kraft product because of the expense and over packaging.
Finding the sweet spot is always a challenge, particuarly with so many products out there.
September 30th, 2006 at 3:31 pm
Interesting discussion. Kraft would have a hard time knowing how to market to me since I buy the pre-grated stuff, but not their particular pre-grated stuff, and I also splurge on the really good cheese for certain dishes. Ahh, sigh. I never was enough of a comformist to be anyone’s target audience.
I will say, based on experience from my own blog (where there are lots of gourmet offerings, but the most popular recipe category is 5 Ingredients or Less) that Alanna is absolutely correct that for much of the country the stuff in the green can *is* parmesan. And at my sister’s house (with 8 kids) they even ration that out.
October 1st, 2006 at 8:18 am
You sound like me - except I like the powdery stuff in the can (largely due to being indoctrinated as a child). We humans are so difficult to pigeonhole, especically when it comes to food. Me? In addition the green can, I love Miracle Whip but will NOT eat Cool Whip or or fake butter. Go figure.
And, don’t forget the blue box Mac&Cheese (I’d bet your sister’s kids love it). A chef client of mine confesses this is her big secret pleasure. None of that fancy gourmet stuff - she wants “the box.”
Further confession - I like the Kroger store brand of the green can. However, the Trader Joe’s brand is really bad (Yes, there are differences in powdery stuff) - I have no shame!
October 9th, 2006 at 7:20 am
[…] can be very difficult – even when you think you see it. Knowing and doing are two very different things (if you don’t believe me – come watch me try to – heh - ski Taos sometime. Good thing I’m so limber.) I recently posted on Kraft’s new Grate-It-Fresh parmesan cheese and how I believe they’re missing the target (still do). However, some people disagree with me and each other (here and here) which illustrates how difficult this whole “target marketing” thing is, and why we marketers focus so much on it. Even when we think we know and can see the target, we can still completely miss the dartboard. […]
November 7th, 2006 at 6:29 am
[…] Now, if your into the food blog scene, you have mos def read about this thing before. Ah yes, the Kraft Parmesan Grate It Fresh. Most internets food dorks certainly hate it, and so did I…. […]
November 12th, 2006 at 8:01 pm
I find this a wonderful and fun product. Why lots of people complaining about it. My boyfriend and I really like it and hope Kraft sells it.
November 12th, 2006 at 8:02 pm
I forgot to mention that my 4 other friends love it too and that it was fun and taste great.
November 13th, 2006 at 7:21 am
The above two comments look suspiciously like spam. But, I’m letting them stand as a example of it takes all kinds. People may very well love the new product, even if in many’s opinions the product is neither well designed nor correctly targeted.
And, that’s why product developers and managers go gray and start drinking martinis…It’s a dart game, no matter what.
November 21st, 2006 at 3:53 pm
Well, I thought what a great idea, I always grate my cheese fresh.
On using grate it fresh it was not easy to turn. I sometimes had to
\go back and forth to get it going clockwise. Thrid time I tried it
it would not work. I had a hard time extracting the cheese from
the container. once I got the grate from the bottom I had to cut
the cheese away from the stem. the bottom of the cheese was
dark and very hard. Yes, I did keep it in the refrigerator. I’m going
back to my little four inch grater, or the zester.
I advised my friends not to buy Kraft Grate-It -Quick.