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March 22, 2007

Brands in Airports: Shop or Slop?

pig at trough Granted, we’ve come a long way from the ubiquitous $8 shriveled hot dog and coal tar coffee that used to be the standard airport fare. We’ve got an increasing number of “name” brands including Starbucks and California Pizza Kitchen that offer great fare. Or do they? This past week I was passing through the Phoenix airport (again) where both operate. Here are the results of my highly unscientific survey, over multiple trips:

1. The Starbucks is jammed into the L of a busy concourse (so much for the “experience”) with the long line snaking back toward the gates. The “baristas” barely speak English, much less look at you. And, the good ol’ plain black coffee tastes like - well - coal tar. (The croissant also more closely resembles a hocky puck.) I realize they have to sacrifice some ambience for speed in this case, but…if the only experience I had with Starbucks was in airports, I wouldn’t ever visit another one. The Starbucks airport brand: Long lines, uncaring service, bad coffee = slop.

2. California Pizza Kitchen has several locations, including pizza shops and “California Pizza Kitchen Quick” - which is a great idea for “grab and go.” However, what you can grab and go are boxes of iceberg lettuce/rubber turkey or ham/cardboard tomatoes that remarkably resemble the old airport fare. Mass produced (I watched them unload hugh crates at 8 a.m. for the lunch rush), overpriced and absolutely nothing to do with pizza. If this was my only experience, I’d never try them outside the airport. The California Pizza Kitchen airport brand: old lettuce, wobbly plastic containers, high prices = slop.

How much damage are such companies doing to their overall brand when operating in airports? Sure, there are unique environmental factors involved, but there should be some consistency in quality and service with their “real world” shops.

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4 Responses to “Brands in Airports: Shop or Slop?”

  1. Maureen Rogers Says:

    Mary - Interesting question. While I think that some brands/chains do a better job than what it sounds like you what you experienced in Phoenix - e.g., I’ve had good luck with airport Au Bon Pains - but my guess is that what they have going in their favor is a) airport amnesia among business travelers: it all begins to blur; and b) if you get any food on your flight, it’s bound to be worse that the airport glop.

  2. mary Says:

    Maureen,

    “Airport Amnesia” - great term and you’re right it does all begin to blur. However, when I used to travel (what seemed like) all the time - the last place I wanted to drink or eat was someplace I associated with an airport - even if they managed to do a decent job. And, Au Bon Pain is good (in context) - I used to eat at the one in Philly’s 30th street station on my way to and from NYC (They also had a number of local places with outlets there, including a soul food place that was right tasty -so it can be done.) You can also get decent ‘que in DFW.

  3. Glenn (Customer Service Experience) Ross Says:

    The airport in Austin, TX only allows locally owned businesses into its two food courts. As a result the two food courts have some of the best food in town as several businesses have opened branches there. I submit Mangia Pizza, Salt Lick Barbecue and Schlotsky’s sandwiches as examples. Oh, and Amy’s Ice Cream. And…

  4. mary Says:

    And the breakfast tacos at Matt’s El Rancho are very tasty! (Ask for extra salsa). Austin is an excellent example of how things could be done. Granted it’s a pretty small airport, but the food choices are far better than many others.

    Philadelphia also has a number of locally owned choices in their food court (new terminals) as well as wonderful rocking chairs to sit and do some quality people watching.

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